Keystone Jacket and Dress Cutter – Charles Hecklinger – Part 2a – Drafting

So now to the drafting process. Which is similar to asking your elderly aunt for instructions after she’s been at the Christmas sherry. This blog is late because getting it into a presentable format was a massive pig of a task. Also I’ve decided to split it into two parts. Or more … we shall see how it goes.

Things to take note of:

  • Although an alpha-numeric code is used, don’t expect it to be in alphabetical/numerical order.
  • Also don’t expect the jacket drafting points to be the same notation as others in the Keystone book. I’m pretty sure he just picked out scrabble tiles for notation points.
  • Expect to jump about from one side to the other.
  • Sometimes he gives set measurements for all sizes. I’ll make that clear in bold type.
  • Sometimes he talks of using the breast measurement, when he really means half of the breast measurement.
  • Everything is measured in inches.
  • For this example I’ll use the example measurements from the book, not my own.

What you will need:

  • Large sheet of paper – I used wrapping paper. The width needed is half the breast measurement plus about 4 inches, The length will be 35 inches as we are drafting a 32 inch long jacket.
  • A long ruler, 1 metre or yard
  • Standard 30cm/12 inch ruler.
  • French curve
  • Pencil
  • Sharpie or felt tip
  1. Draw a line across the top and down the right edge of the paper. Where they join is point O. Measure down form O, ¾ inch and mark point 1. This is the point at the back of the neck.
  2. Measure down from point 1 with the “Back of neck to natural waist measurement” which is point B. The book gives the example of 16 inches. Then measure down from point 1, 32 inches which makes point C. Using a set square, draw across from these points.
  1. Measure up from point B with the “Height under arm” measurement, given in the book as 7.5 inches again draw across from this point.
  2. Measure across from point B to find point D. The books gives the measurement as 1/12 of the breast. But here he means half the breast measurement (because we are only drafting half of the pattern) So the given breast size is 36 inches, divide by 2 is 18, divide by 12 is 1.5 inches. So B to D is 1.5 inches. With a long ruler draw a line from D to A. This is the back seam. Measure left from point D 1.5 inches to point 6.
  1. From points D and 6, draw a line straight down to meet line C. Label these points 7/8 and 5/8 respectively. Draw a gently curved line from point D to C. Measure the distance from C to 7/8, then use this measurement left from 5/8 to find point 10. Then reflect the curve between points 6 and 10.
  1. Mark the point A1 where the back seam crosses the line at point A. From this point measure across with the “blade measure or front of arm”, given in the book as 10 inches. Mark this point H. Through H draw a vertical line to meet line O and line B, Label these V and J respectively.
  2. Now it gets complicated. To find the measurement between H and the new point F, we take the blade measure and multiply it by 1.5. Then divide the result by 4. So for the example given we have a blade measure of 10. Multiplied by 1.5 is 15. Then 15 divided by 4 is 3.75 inches. So from H back towards A by 3.75 inches is point F.
  1. Measure the line between point F and the unnamed point on line O, lets call if Jeff, divide this measure by 2 to find point M in the middle. Then do the same to find the middle between point M and Jeff, this is point K. Then again in the middle of point M and K, mark point L.
  2. The measurement from O to 2 is the blade measure multiplied by 1.5 and then divided by 8. So for the example again with the blade being 10 inches, multiply by 1.5 is 15 inches, divide by 8 is 1.875 inches. Use a French curve to draw from 2 to 1.
  1. Measure from O to point N which is one third of the half breast measure. So with a full bust measure of 36 inches, halved to 18 inches, divided by 3 is 6 inches. Draw down a line to be level with point M. This is point 4. Draw a curved line from point 6 to just right of point 4.
  2. Mark point 7, one inch left of point 6. This is a set measurement. Draw another curve, starting from just right of the previous line nest to point 4 and point 7 below.

Well that was a lot… I will continue in part two very soon. Hopefully this will have given a rough guide of how to approach the rest of the drafting. I have to reiterate how amazingly good this pattern is and completely work all this effort!

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